The first World Climbing Series Speed event of 2026 produced a blistering start to the season as the men and women shatter the fastest ever qualification cut-off times
Wujiang 2026 produced the fastest qualification round for both the men and the women, and it isn’t even close!
USA’s Michael Hom summed up the men’s qualification saying: *“*This comp is insane for all the 4.9s, it was all the way down to like 20, that’s crazy.”
For the men it was actually down to position 21 that was under five seconds with a cut off time of 4.94s. The women needed 6.67s to make it into the final with position 28 under seven seconds – for perspective, the previous best cut off times for both were from Chamonix last year with the men at 5.09s and the women at 7.08s.
MEN’S QUALIFICATION
Sitting in 16th position to make it into the final was Spain’s Erik Noya. Maybe considered one of the elder stateman in the group compared to the likes of new world record holder Yicheng Zhao at just 16-years-old, Noya knew what an achievement it was just to make it through.
“Unbelievable. My heart is about to explode. I can’t tell you how proud of myself I am because I got a sub-5 in competition and made the final.
“The goal is to keep up with the pace. These days the level is raising too fast. I’m really proud and happy to do it for myself and for Spain.”
Both Noya and Zhao are into the final, as is the former world record holder USA’s Sam Watson.
The men’s final in Wujiang is bursting with talent with Olympic champion Veddriq Leonardo through, and world champion Jianguo Long also through. Long was actually the fastest qualifier.
It’s not just the established names either, the level has been stepped up across the board with Ukraine’s Hryhorii Ilchyshyn and Thailand’s Aphiwit Limpanichpakdee both posting personal best times showing the off season has really increased the gains and the season ahead is looking hot. In Ilchyshyn's case, this was even a new men's European record.
Men’s finalists
1 Jianguo LONG (CHN) 4.71
2 Yicheng ZHAO (CHN) 4.76
3 Samuel WATSON (USA) 4.79
4 Ryo OMASA (JPN) 4.81 (PB)
5 Jie YANG (CHN) 4.82 (PB)
6 Hryhorii ILCHYSHYN (UKR) 4.841 (PB) European Record
7 Aphiwit LIMPANICHPAKDEE (THA) 4.842 (PB)
8 Raharjati NURSAMSA (INA) 4.845
9 Kiromal KATIBIN (INA) 4.87
10 Aditya TRI SYAHRIA (INA) 4.881 (PB)
11 Veddriq LEONARDO (INA) 4.888
12 Michael HOM (USA) 4.911 (PB)
13 Yaroslav TKACH (UKR) 4.913
14 Yongzhi LING (CHN) 4.92 (PB)
15 Peng WU (CHN) 4.93
16 Erik NOYA CARDONA (ESP) 4.94 (PB)
*(PB) = personal best
WOMEN’S QUALIFICATION
Top of the women’s qualification was Poland’s Aleksandra Kalucka who had a mixed qualification but kept her head when it mattered most.
A slip in her first run and a 7.44s was in the back of her mind coming into the second, but Kalucka adapted and posted a 6.25s, after saying: “I felt pressure so I went a bit slower at the top of the route so I know I can do faster in the final. It’s good to be here and feel that speed on the wall.”
With a bit of a safety run securing the best time of the round, what can the Polish climber do next: *“*It’s my secret. We will see in the final.”
In only her second competition at this level, Ukraine’s Polina Khalkevych has come out flying.
Finishing the round in fourth with a 6.34s Khalkevych said: “I’m really happy as I did a personal best today. We will see what I can do in the final.”
Speaking about her times Khalkevych said: “I had like 7.7 in Krakow last year, but I have been doing these kinds of times in training so I know I can do it.”
The finals though aren’t always about time, it’s about beating your opponent, and there are lots of names in the list that have shown they are expert at doing just that and making it all the way to the podium.
China’s Yafei Zhou. Indonesia’s Desak Dewi. South Korea’s Jimin Jeong. Even down in 14th you have China’s Olympic medallist Lijuan Deng. The finals will be hotly contested.
Even though she didn’t make it through to the final round, Helen Lee from New Zealand posted a 7.74s for a new women's Oceania record – the first time someone in the region has gone under eight seconds in a world competition.
Women’s finalists
1 Aleksandra KALUCKA (POL) 6.25 (PB)
2 Yafei ZHOU (CHN) 6.30 (PB)
3 Shaoqin ZHANG (CHN) 6.33
4 Polina KHALKEVYCH (UKR) 6.34 (PB)
5 Desak MADE RITA KUSUMA DEWI (INA) 6.37
6 Natalia KALUCKA (POL) 6.40 (PB)
7 Jimin JEONG (KOR) 6.42
8 Mengli ZHANG (CHN) 6.433 (PB)
9 Yuju MOU (CHN) 6.438 (PB)
10 Capucine VIGLIONE (FRA) 6.482 (PB)
11 Milana MELNICHENKO (AIN) 6.485 (6.75)
12 Rajiah SALLSABILLAH (INA) 6.485 (7.87)
13 Isis ROTHFORK (USA) 6.49 (PB)
14 Lijuan DENG (CHN) 6.54
15 Elizaveta IVANOVA (AIN) 6.60 (PB)
16 Shengyan WANG (CHN) 6.67
*(PB) = personal best
RESULTS
WHERE TO WATCH
Speed finals at the World Climbing Series Wujiang 2026 will begin at 20:00 (UTC+8:00).
The finals will be live streamed on the World Climbing YouTube channel, with geo-blocking applied to selected countries and territories.
For an overview of where to watch the event click here.
News and updates will be available on the World Climbing website and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Threads, TikTok, X, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Bilibili, Douyin, Weibo, and Xiaohongshu.