Hear from the climbers at the World Climbing Series event in Keqiao, China
Women's FINAL
Zélia Avezou, France - GOLD
“Honestly, I’m just wondering what has happened. I think I will fully realise later maybe.”
“I just took it one boulder at a time. I thought the boulders were pretty easy apart from the first one, and the last would be really important.
“I didn’t really think about the win, I just thought that if I got ten points on the final boulder I can get in a good position. Maybe I didn’t think I could top it honestly, but it was nice to do a physical boulder for once in my life.”
WOMEN'S SEMI-FINAL
Annie Sanders, USA
“I feel like the boulders suited me a lot better today than they did yesterday. The boulders were pretty physical; I actually found the slab to be the most physical. I couldn’t do it properly, but it was physical, and sweaty!”
“Qualification and semi-final have had hard problems to solve, and I would love the same for the final.”
Oceania Mackenzie, Australia
When asked about the ice on her knee:
“I have a bruised bone. It’s been sore for a little while and it’s really hard to heal, so it’s been causing me problems for a little while. Fortunately if I climb on it it’s not going to get too much worse so it’s just dealing with the pain.”
“It was a hard round, but I really enjoy climbing in front of this Chinese crowd, they are so sweet and supportive.”
Oriane Bertone, France
Talking about boulder three:
“It was a long boulder, and the way I did it wasn’t the most efficient way. It wasn’t optimal, but I made it work so I’m happy about it because I’m not really strong on long boulders and put energy into the top of long boulders.”
*Being told how long it took to top boulder three:
*“It was two minutes? There’s no way. Wow. When I got onto the last two pinches I was not letting go as I knew if I let go I was not going to ever go up again. I stuck that move and thought ‘I will not fall’, I felt powerful in that move.”
QUALIFICATION
Nikolay Rusev, Bulgaria
“Congratulations to all the routesetters, I think they really hit all the styles. There were moments where you had to think as the slightest mistake could put you out. Pretty much perfect boulders.”
“My qualification went pretty well for the first event of the season. It was quite stressful as I was close to be out of the semis. Climbing is no joke, if you don’t focus you are out.
“I made some mistakes but overall, it went pretty good. I feel fresh and I’m happy to be on the circuit again.”
Lucas Trandafir, Germany
“For sure it was difficult, but the level was pretty good. It was a well-set round with a few tops taking you through.”
“I will try and rest tomorrow, I’m curious to see what I can do in the semis.”
Janja Garnbret, Slovenia
"It was a super good round. I felt totally different than last year in Innsbruck [her first competition of the 2025 season]. Last year I was too overwhelmed, but this year I had a different approach and maybe I was a bit more relaxed."
"The round was harder than most of the qualis - which I like. It was a good start to the season, and I think the routesetters wanted to see where the level was at. I’m excited for semis and finals. I feel good, my mind is good, my body is healthy – I’m happy."
Giorgia Tesio, Italy
"The round was pretty hard so I did everything I could. I don’t think I could have done much more than I did. The first event of the year I never know what to expect. Every year feels like the first time competing."
PRE-EVENT
Melina Costanza, USA
“I’m doing well. We had pretty easy travel in, and I’m feeling excited about the season. This will be my first time doing a lot of World Cups in Boulder in one season – my first time doing any Boulder World Cup since 2022 – so I’m really excited.”
“I’m gonna knock on wood, but they feel good right now. I had injured my knee last season, and this year I haven’t had any knee issues so far… so I’m feeling healthy and excited for the first event and many more.”
On her breakthrough performance at last year’s Climbing World Championships in Seoul:
“That was definitely, by far, my best result ever. I had never made a final or semi-final even at a Boulder World Cup before, so it definitely was kind of a fairy tale finish to that season.”
“Going into the season with no expectations, hoping to make my first semi-final, and take it step by step, day by day.”
“I know how strong the competition is, and I definitely do not underestimate that. I feel really grateful to be here, surrounded by so many people who are so talented and so strong and so dedicated. I think it pushes the level higher for everyone.”
“I think the trajectory has been more toward a classical bouldering style. Not so much every single boulder being some sort of coordination, or really complicated to figure out. I think we’ll see some straightforward, hard Climbing this year, and I think it’ll be exciting for everyone to participate and to watch!”