The World Climbing Series Innsbruck 2026 moved to the Lead discipline on Friday, with Filip Schenk of Italy and Janja Garnbret of Slovenia topping the men’s and women’s qualification standings, respectively.

Schenk delivered the standout performance of the day in the men’s competition, while Garnbret marked her return to international competition with the only top recorded on women’s route one. A total of 24 women and 25 men advanced to the semi-finals.

SCHENK STANDS ALONE

Italian 26-year-old Filip Schenk was the only male athlete to top both qualification routes, finishing first in the standings and confirming the form that already placed him in the men's final at the opening Lead event of the season in Wujiang, China.

Schenk said: "I'd say topping both routes was unexpected for sure. I started second and had to wake up really early, so it was not easy. But I also got good friction because this morning it was a bit colder, that helped me. I feel really good and I'm hoping to continue like this.

"Personally, I always struggle a little bit having two rounds in one day, because I'm an athlete with not a big volume. So I always feel the qualification in semi-final. I would prefer to have them in two different days, but it's also good to climb in the evening because of the crowd, it's always a good vibe.

"I try to not to think about it too much, conditons are the same also for the others, I finished quite early and I have quite some time to recover. 
So for sure I try to convince myself to be strong also tonight!"

Only two other climbers recorded a top across the two routes: Anraku Sorato of Japan, who finished second after topping route one, and Adam Ondra of Czechia, who placed fourth and also secured a top on route one. Luka Potocar of Slovenia used two strong and consistent climbs to place third overall.

"The first route was a bit sketchy starting first. I can't remember when was the last time I started first, I was a bit nervous," said Potocar. "Also, the route was a bit slabby at the start, tricky with small foot holds. But I'm happy with the results, I was a bit unlucky with the last move.

"In the second route I was relaxed. After the middle part it was just pure endurance, and I'm really happy with how I climbed. It was really early in the morning, the temperature was really good in my first route, can't say so much for the second... The friction was much better than I thought compared to the second group, and the temperature is way higher now than it was this morning."

FIRST-TIMERS AND EXTRA SPOTS

Among the athletes advancing to the semi-final was Sergey Lakhno of the USA, who qualified for the semi-final round for the first time in his career.

The men’s field will feature 25 climbers rather than the scheduled 24 after a three-way tie for 23rd place. Mikel Asier Linacisoro Molina of Spain, Victor Guillermin of France, and Sascha Lehmann of Switzerland all recorded identical scores of 43+ on route one and 27+ on route two, earning the final qualification positions.

For the men's Lead complete results click here.

GARNBRET RETURNS TO THE TOP

Competing in her first international event since Wujiang, two-time Olympic champion Janja Garnbret immediately took control of the women’s qualification round. The Slovenian was the only athlete to top route one, adding 44+ on route two to secure first place overall.

Seo Chaehyun of South Korea followed in second place, with Jessica Pilz of Austria taking third in front of the home crowd. Annie Sanders of the USA continued her excellent Innsbruck campaign by placing fourth less than two days after winning the women’s Boulder event.

LOOSER MAKES THE CUT

Climbing in front of her home crowd, Mattea Pötzi of Austria was the second Austrian climber to make the cut in the women’s event, alongside Jessica Pilz of Austria.

"I'm quite happy," commented Pötzi after scoring 32+ in bouth routes. "Both roots were solid I fell at the bottleneck in the first route, so I had to climb well on the second. I approached the second route like it was my first one. I did okay, so I'm happy to climb again in semi.

"Tonight is going to be great, qualifications are always so stressful, especially at home. I don't want to miss it! I'm hoping for a good crowd, climbing in Innsbruck is so special for us. I'm really looking forward to it!"

One of the stories of the day came from Switzerland’s Noé Looser, who advanced to the Lead semi-final for the first time in her senior international career. The Swiss climber finished 18th after scoring 32 on route one and 32+ on route two.

"I'm so happy to be in semi-final, maybe I didn't realise it yet!" said Looser. "I just enjoyed really the routes,it was really fun. I tried to chill while I was waiting to see if I was in semi-final.

"Tonight I just want to have fun!"

For the women's Lead complete results click here.

NEXT UP

Day four at the World Climbing Series Innsbruck 2026 will close later tonight with start at 19:40 (UTC+2:00) with the men's and women's Lead semi-finals, selection the top eight climbers in each event for tomorrow's conclusive round.

News and updates about all World Climbing events will be available on the World Climbing website, and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Threads, TikTok, X, YouTube, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Douyin, Weibo, and Xiaohongshu.