Garnbret leads the way with two tops in Santiago
The Slovenian was the only climber to top either qualification route, while Belgium’s Heloïse Doumont finished second and Chile’s Martina Castro secured the final semi-final spot on home soil
Janja Garnbret of Slovenia topped both qualification routes to take first place in the women’s Lead qualification at the World Climbing Series Santiago 2026, setting the pace ahead of Saturday’s semi-final.
The two-time Olympic champion was the only climber in the field to reach the top of either route, finishing the round in commanding fashion.
Belgium’s Heloïse Doumont claimed second place, while Japan demonstrated its depth with five climbers progressing to the semi-final. Among those joining the top 24 was home favourite Martina Castro, who secured the final available spot and will compete in her first semi-final at her fifth overall start.
DOUMONT AND PÖTZI IMPRESS ON THE FIRST ROUTE
Doumont put together two strong performances to finish second overall, scoring 46 on the first route before reaching 35+ on the second. The Belgian was pleased with her opening climb, although she acknowledged that she could have done better.
“The first route one was really cool. I made some mistakes, of course, but I could find every move,” she said.
Her second climb proved more challenging, with the Belgian struggling to find comfortable positions on the wall.
“In my second climb, I didn’t feel great. It was complicated for me to find a good position. I also had the feeling that the holds were a little bit wet, but it’s okay, it’s the same for everyone.”
Austria’s Mattea Pötzi also made the most of the first route, scoring 44+ before adding 30 on the second to secure 15th place and a spot in the semi-final.
Competing in South America for the first time, Pötzi admitted that the chilly morning conditions came as a surprise.
“To be honest, I was expecting warmer temperatures, so I was a bit surprised that it was so cold in the morning. My fingers didn’t get too cold, and I had a good fight on my first qualification route. I fell at a hard move,” she explained.
Pötzi felt equally comfortable at the start of her second climb, but a slip brought her attempt to an end.
“In the second route I still felt super good, and then my foot slipped and I couldn’t catch it.”
FIVE JAPANESE CLIMBERS THROUGH
Japan once again showcased its strength in women’s Lead, placing five climbers inside the top 24.
Koika Hana led the Japanese contingent in sixth place, followed by Nakagawa Ryu in eighth. Nonaka Miho finished joint ninth, with Oda Natsumi in 13th and Kobayashi Mai in 19th to complete an impressive team performance.
The final semi-final spot went to Chile’s Martina Castro, who made it through in 24th place to the delight of the home crowd.
At her fifth overall start, Castro will now compete in her first semi-final round, marking a significant milestone in her international career.
NEXT UP
Day two at the World Climbing Series Santiago 2026 will kick off at 9:00 (UTC-3:00) with men's Lead qualification, while the Speed Series 2026 will come to a close with one final round starting at 18:00.
News and updates about all World Climbing events will be available on the World Climbing website, and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Threads, TikTok, X, YouTube, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Douyin, Weibo, and Xiaohongshu.
