Asian champ Suzuki out to enjoy Santiago
Japan’s Neo Suzuki ticked of a big season goal winning the Asian Games Lead title, and he is trying to tick another off his list aiming for the 2026 overall win
Climbing returns to South America following the debut on the world stage in Brazil last season, and this year it steps up a level as Santiago, Chile hosts the final stage of the Speed and Lead disciplines.
Winners of the World Climbing Series 2027 rankings presented by Euroholds will be crowned when all the action is done at the Bicentenario Cerrillos Park, and for Lead, one of those climbers in a great position to win is Neo Suzuki.
Fresh off a gold at the Asian Games 2026 in Nagoya, Japan, Suzuki can cap a big year by taking the overall title, and he has a cushion back to his nearest rival, Indonesia’s Putra Tri Ramadani, thanks to his three gold’s and one silver so far.
Asked about his Asian Games win Suzuki said: “That was my biggest goal of the season for me, and I was so happy to win.”
Starting back in May in Wujiang, China, the Lead competitions have visted Prague, Czechia; Innsbruck, Austria; Chamonix, France; and Koper, Slovenia before heading to Santiago, and talking about the season Suzuki said: “I’m feeling really good, it’s been a long season, but I am still feeling very motivated and excited to compete. I don’t want to focus too much on getting the overall title, just focus on my climbing and do my best.”
Travel is a bit part of an athlete’s life, and with a trip of around 24 hours for Suzuki, climbing isn’t the most immediate thing on his mind: “I still have a few days before I have to climb so for now it’s about focussing on my recovery.
“It’s my first time to Chile so I will do some sightseeing and enjoy the city and the food. I’m excited to look around. Me, Sorato and Satone are going to go and do a few tourist things.”
Bringing the focus back to the climbing though, Suzuki knows what he could achieve in Santiago: “To win the overall title would be one of the best achievements of my career, but I don’t want to put too much pressure on myself because then I won’t climb as I want to or need to. There is a bit of pressure, but I try not to let it affect me or think about it too much. I just want to enjoy climbing, and I can be happy after if I win.”
Mentioning his teammates Sorato Anraku and Satone Yoshida, both will be in action with both coming to Santiago on the back of very different results. Yoshida won silver behind Suzuki at the Asian Games while Anraku, who despite taking the overall Boulder title for the year, failed to make it out of qualification in Salt Lake City last week – no doubt he will be hoping for more this time around.
Tri Ramadani will have to target a very high result, and hope Suzuki finishes low down the order to win the overall title, but he will be confident for a medal push after winning his first gold of his career this year.
It seems strange to say that Spain’s Alberto Ginés López also won his first World Climbing Series gold this year considering his achievements, but the constant high performer and serial medallist will be looking to add to his maiden victory in Santiago now he has a taste of gold.
Of the 59 men registered to start in Santiago, one especially has fond memories of the city – USA’s Jesse Grupper. The venue hosting the competition is the same venue that hosted the Pan American Games in 2023, and Grupper won that event not only taking the title but securing a place at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games.
The women’s series should be confirmed as an Annie Sanders win with neither her nor her closest rival Chaehyun Seo in action. Currently in second in the overall, Seo should mathematically be set for a top three finish, but she could be pushed down to third if the current holder of that position finishes highly...and that climber is Janja Garnbret.
Slovenian Garnbret has won the two golds in Innsbruck and Koper, but as she hasn’t competed in every event, she cannot reach Sander’s tally – but Seo is well within her sights.
Garnbret is joined by teammates Rosa Rekar and Lucka Rakovec in Santiago, and they go up against climbers like Italy’s Laura Rogora and Austria’s Pötzi from Europe.
Representing Oceania, is Oceania as Mackenzie comes down to South America fresh off a podium spot in the Boulder overall series for the season.
Brazil’s Anja Köhler and Argentina’s Valentina Aguado will be flying the flags for their South American countries while Martina Castro is the current South American Lead champion taking that win in Santa Fe, Argentina last month.
The women’s Lead competition starts with qualification on Friday 23 October while the men have their qualification a day later on Saturday 24 October. Both men and women will contest their semi-final and final and finish the 2026 series on Sunday 25 October.
SCHEDULE (Local Time, UTC +2)
Friday 23 October
09:00 – 13:00 Women’s Lead Qualification
17:20 – 18:30 Men’s Speed Qualification
19:50 – 20:40 Women’s Speed Qualification
Saturday 24 October
09:00 – 13:30 Men’s Lead Qualification
18:00 – 19:15 Men’s and Women’s Speed finals
Sunday 25 October
09:00 – 11:30 Men’s and Women’s Lead Semi-final
18:00 Women’s Lead final
19:00 Men’s Lead Final
News and updates about the World Climbing Series Salt Lake City 2026 will be available on the World Climbing website, and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Threads, TikTok, X, YouTube, and exclusively for the Chinese audience, Bilibili, Douyin, Weibo, and Xiaohongshu.
