INNSBRUCK 2026: WHAT THE ATHLETES SAID

PRE EVENT

Sorato Anraku, Japan

“I like the Innsbruck venue; I’m looking forwarding to competing here.”

“Of course I want to win more, especially here in Innsbruck. I don’t really feel the pressure though to win five in a row; I just focus on the individual competition. I take it one event at a time.”

“I did a lot of competitions in a row; Bern, Madrid and Prague in Boulder, so I was exhausted in the Lead final.

“But for this event I took some time out in Munich to prepare and recover ready to do both disciplines again here. It was all about recovery and I learned that from the previous events. I’m ready.”

WOMEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION

Luo Zhilu of China, 13th with 94.8 points:

“The round was not too hard, but not too easy either. The first boulder in my group, I really didn’t know how to climb. The second one was kind of hard to solve because of my shoulder injury, and in the last three problems, I think I did my best.

“I have broken something in my right shoulder, and it’s never going to repair if I don’t get surgery. So I do a lot of rehabilitation to keep it stable, but I’m kind of worried for the semi-final. I’m constantly thinking about it.”

Jakoba Rauter of Austria, 13th with 79.6 points:

"It was amazing. I knew that I could be in semi-final, that I could climb well. I just came back from the Europe Youth Championship, which I won, and I was very confident. But still, I felt in my body that I had so many competitions, and I was like 'It's my, favorite competiton because it's my home one.' I was really close to all the boulders actually. And it was enough, I'm so happy to climb in my first semi-final.

"I had so much pressure because I won the first two Europe Youth Series events, then I was very close two years ago at the European Championships, and I was like 'I know I can win, but I have to be really precise'. And I did, I was just free in my head, I'm so happy and proud about that.

"For me, the qualification round was so stressful, because I wanted to do so well. My parents, everyone is here and now I'm in semi-final, I feel like a little girl who is just so happy to climb. Maybe tonight I won't sleep anything, so we'll see!"

MEN'S BOULDER QUALIFICATION

Amagasa Sohta of Japan, third with 99.2 points:

"My round was not perfect, but still pretty good. This is my favorite place, my favorite venue... good boulders, good atmosphere. I like it.

"I can't wait for semi-final, I don't know what kind of boulders I will find, but I want to enjoy and go to the final and get the podium. If I could pick the boulder, I would say some good coordination, and since I trained a lot in slab, I'd like to top a slab boulder."

Adrien Lemaire of France, seventh with 84.5 points:

"My qualification was quite good, I topped the first three boulders, so I'm happy with my performance. I wasn't qualified for the beginning of the season because I missed the French selection. So I was just qualified for one European event, where I made it to the podium and then I qualified for Prague and Innsbruck.

"I was quite frustrated after the French selection, but when I qualified for the European event I set a new objective, and I knew if I did a good performance at the European one, I can qualify for the next one. I set goals step by step, now I have goals for this event. A good semi-final would be cool. I just want to climb some cool boulders and enjoy my climbing. Hopefully some good weather too!"

WOMEN'S BOULDER SEMI-FINAL

Annie Sanders of the USA, first with 74.8 points:

"I feel good. Feel hot...
I have to go cool off somewhere. I still need to work on those coordo moves, they still feel a little bit foreign to me, so I gotta work more on those.

"Right now I feel super psyched to compete and super grateful. I honestly don't feel that much pressure. I feel like, since I've had so much success, now I just don't feel any pressure, so I'm just going out and enjoying myself.

"It would be great for me to have a coordination boulder in the final, I think it would be cool, because I feel like I learn these moves at these comps, I don't really get to practice them that often, so it's cool to go out there and practice them. B**ut I'd really be psyched if there was a handjam in final. I know there was one last year, and I could not do it, so I went back and I worked on them. In Prague, the handjam felt super comfortable. So I'd be down to see another one."

Ito Futaba of Japan, third with 54.6 points:

"It was a hard round, I think. I felt a bit tired before the last boulder, but that was my style so I didn't give up.

"This year we had slabs and coordination at every comp, but here it's important to be good in physical boulders too. I hope there will be more in the final too."

WOMEN'S BOULDER FINAL

Annie Sanders of the USA, gold medal with 68.9 points:

"It feels pretty surreal, Innsbruck is one of my favourite places, my European home, so to win gold here is really cool.

"I feel really good about my shape, I had a ton of fun out there on the mats, and I'm super psyched right now! I'll definitely enjoy this medal, have a nice rest day tomorrow and watch the boys, support Colin, before thinking about Lead. I'll get some sleep, chill, and maybe get some ice cream, they have good ice cream here!"

MEN'S BOULDER SEMI-FINAL

Maximillian Milne of Great Britain, third with 84.8 points:

"I had a good feeling coming into this competition. My shape has just gone better as the season went on, and the middle two comps, Madrid and Prague, were a bit shafty because I sliced my finger open, so I didn't get to climb as or show my shape.

"I came out, executed really well, and then just kept topping blocks! I was like 'Maybe I can top all four.' I didn't top the last one, but I was really close. It was just the swinging move to the pinch. It was definitely my style, fine margins... This kind of round, you either do them first try, or you don't do them at all, because your hands get too hot and your body gets too hot. You could see I knew I was in as well, so maybe my drive wasn't as switched on for that last move.

"I feel like I can get on the podium. I've been in two other finals this year, I've never done that in a season, so I've been striving for consistency, but it's super hard in this game. and I feel I'm finally there, I just have to have the blocks suit me and it'll work out.

"I keep thinking, every competition at the moment, I go out there and if it's my Kai Harada moment, where the round suits you, I'll fly, if not, just climb well and see what happens. But we're in Innsbruck, so hopefully I can!"

Chon Jongwon of South Korea, seventh with 69.3 points:

"I'm pretty much a friction climber. I had the very good fiction on my hand. So this type of boulder is my main strength. Well, nowadays I think it's Sticky Boy Sorato, but after him, there's me. Now we're both in the final, old versus new, usually the new thing is better, but I'll give myb heart... classic is forever. I'm doing my best."

MEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION

Filip Schenk of Italy, first with two tops:

"I'd say topping both routes was unexpected for sure. I started second and had to wake up really early, so it was not easy. But I also got good friction because this morning it was a bit colder, that helped me. I feel really good and I'm hoping to continue like this.

"Personally, I always struggle a little bit having two rounds in one day, because I'm an athlete with not a big volume. So I always feel the qualification in semi-final. I would prefer to have them in two different days, but it's also good to climb in the evening because of the crowd, it's always a good vibe.

"I try to not to think about it too much, conditons are the same also for the others, I finished quite early and I have quite some time to recover. So for sure I try to convince myself to be strong also tonight!"

Luka Potocar of Slovenia, third with 47+ and 43:

"The first route was a bit sketchy starting first. I can't remember when was the last time I started first, I was a bit nervous. Also, the route was a bit slabby at the start, tricky with small foot holds. But I'm happy with the results, I was a bit unlucky with the last move.

"In the second route I was relaxed. After the middle part it was just pure endurance, and I'm really happy with how I climbed. It was really early in the morning, the temperature was really good in my first route, can't say so much for the second... The friction was much better than I thought compared to the second group, and the temperature is way higher now than it was this morning."

WOMEN'S LEAD QUALIFICATION

Mattea Pötzi of Austria, 13th with 32+ and 32+:

"I'm quite happy. Both roots were solid I fell at the bottleneck in the first route, so I had to climb well on the second. I approached the second route like it was my first one. I did okay, so I'm happy to climb again in semi.

"Tonight is going to be great, qualifications are always so stressful, especially at home. I don't want to miss it! I'm hoping for a good crowd, climbing in Innsbruck is so special for us. I'm really looking forward to it!"

Noé Looser of Switzerland, 18th with 32 and 32+:

"I'm so happy to be in semi-final, maybe I didn't realise it yet! I just enjoyed really the routes,it was really fun. I tried to chill while I was waiting to see if I was in semi-final.

"Tonight I just want to have fun!"

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