Hear from the athletes at the World Climbing Series event in Chamonix, France
SPEED FINALS
Veddriq Leonardo, Indonesia - men's gold medallist
“I feel great. I feel grateful. It’s my first gold medal after the Olympics and it’s taken a long time to get it. I want to say thank you to everyone, it means a lot.”
“I haven’t climbed properly because I haven’t trained properly. I tried my best and I think this is a real achievement. I haven’t really touched a wall in training and then raced in Madrid and Krakow, and I just feel grateful for this achievement.”
Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, Indonesia - women's gold medallist
“I’m very happy. Tonight I had the best performance and just enjoyed myself. I’m happy to get this gold for my country and my team. In my mind I always say let’s do it and just get the best performance.”
“I wasn’t feeling the best about the venue because of the sun in the day and I didn’t get much sleep, but tonight it has changed and now I love Chamonix.”
SPEED QUALIFICATIONS
MEN
Julian David, New Zealand
“First time in a comp, first time in training. First one under five for an Oceania record. It’s incredible.”
“I feel really good on the wall and I’m looking forward to what I can do in the future. I feel like this time has opened the floodgates and I will start seeing 4.8’s soon. It’s been a long time coming and I feel it will drop real quick now.”
Valentin Sternik, Argentina
“First time under six in a comp. First time 5.8. First time 5.7 ever in my life. I’m speechless.”
Sternik’s reflection was: “It’s a lot of effort. I worked so hard every day. I have different goals from others here. It’s a lot of work like all the other athletes know. I’m just really happy and really thankful. I’ll always remember Chamonix, it’s amazing.”
WOMEN
Capucine Viglione, France
“I’m happy to be here in Chamonix and in front of the French crowd, and my family and friends.”
“My first run was fast, close to my personal best, but the second, I wanted to go faster and that’s probably why I slipped. But I gave it my all and I’m happy with that.” (*Viglione’s personal best time is 6.43s)
“I’m going to take it one round at a time. My main goal is to go fast and enjoy every single minute of this competition.”
LEAD FINALS
Alberto Ginés López, Spain - men's gold medallist
“I have been looking forward to this moment for about seven years. I got my first podium in like 2019 and I have been quite close ever since then. I had some hard times after the Olympics in Tokyo [2020], and last season nearly everything was working perfectly but it wasn’t happening, and I was starting to think maybe I’m not meant to win. This feels so good.”
Annie Sanders, USA - women's gold medallist
“It was incredible. The crowd in Chamonix is always so supportive, and I feel like the routes suited me very well, flowy and then crimpy at the top.”
Talking about her plan: “Go home and rest quite a bit and then come back to Europe for Koper.”
On sticking her tongue out to the crowd: “It was kind of in the moment. I spun around and saw the crowd, and it seemed super surreal, and it lightened up the mood a little bit.”
LEAD SEMI-FINALS
WOMEN
Aleksandra Totkova, Bulgaria
“When I saw the route I knew it would be my style, I really liked it. When I climbed, I felt really good on the wall, and I managed every move the way I thought I was going to. Maybe where I fell maybe I could have gone with the other hand, but it was a good climb.”
“I felt this move was hard and I should go straight for it, but then it felt ok and I could shake a bit and go again. It was a bit of a risky move, but I believed I could hold the hold.”
Brooke Raboutou, USA
“It was definitely the biggest injury I have had in my career, I tore the labrum in the semi-final in Bern, but luckily it was just a partial tear.
“Rehab has been going really well, I’m working with a great crew, and they said I don’t need surgery and PT (physical therapy) should work. It’s been PT twice a day and not much training, but I felt safe to climb here because it’s Lead. For me it’s a really good mental challenge to go into a competition not in peak shape but do it for the pure pleasure.”
MEN
Sorato Anraku, Japan
“For now, I’m happy to be in the final, but I’m not satisfied with that semi-final climb. I’m frustrated not to be first in the semi-final, and I obviously want to move up in the final. I’m only aiming for a victory.”
“I’m completely recovered now from the fatigue, and I have had a chance to work on Lead more than Boulder for a bit, so I am feeling good.”
LEAD QUALIFICATIONS
Jesse Grupper, USA
“Overall it’s my sixth year in Chamonix and every year I feel like it gets better and better. My expectations are pretty low and I’m having fun. I’ve definitely flubbed this comp before, maybe it’s because of the beautiful venue and just enjoying the view as opposed to actually doing the climbing.”
“I’m just off the wall so feeling the jitters; the good jitters for sure. The first route was fun and felt a lot like rock climbing I would say – techy feet, move and twist and a cool tension I haven’t really seen that much at this level.
“The second route was a little more punchy and in your face. It was a bit more power and endurance and I like they are playing with the styles a bit more.”
“It’s always stood out as one I’ve always wanted to do better in and hopefully this is the year.
“In years past mentally it was hard to have a perception of myself and hold onto it and try to get better and that made the results hurt a bit more. Now I’m coming from a place more of love and enjoyment and I think that speaks for itself in the results.”
Ina Plassoux Djiga, France
“The routes were so cool. I was pretty stressed before I climbed as last year I was 25th and just outside the semi-final places, and Chamonix is home and I like this comp so I wanted to do well.”
“I didn’t know if I was going to climb or not as the weather meant we could have stopped for a bit, but I was ok with all situations.”
“For the semi-final I will try to climb with my best mindset and just focus on my climb. It’s not flash which I find a bit more difficult, but it’s just another type of test for me.”
