TODAY AT THE ASIAN GAMES: DAY 1

MEN’S BOULDER

Fifteen men were looking to progress to the final of the men’s Boulder competition in Nagoya, but only eight could make the cut.

South Korea’s Dohyun Lee was the top qualifier with 99.7pts and was one of only two climbers to top all four boulders. The other was one of the home favourites, Sorato Anraku who had more attempts for his tops and finished in 99.3pts.

China’s Yufei Pan was third with 84.1pts followed by Thailand’s Auswin Aueareechit on 83.9pts. There are two Japanese finalists with Tomoa Narasaki the other climber to top three and zone the other finishing in fifth on 83.8pts.

South Korea and China also have two finalists with Jongwon Chon in sixth on 74.7pts joining teammate Lee and Junzhe Hu in seventh on 59.5pts joining teammate Pan.

Through to the final in eighth with 48.6pts was Singapore’s Gerald Bayo Verosil. 

After being confirmed in the final Verosil said: “It’s unbelievable. I just went into it wanting to enjoy the moment and do my best. Just being here is a privilege and an honour. I barely made it to qualify for the Asian Games, and I came here to enjoy it, and I’m happy I could do that.”

Talking about the final Verosil said: “It’s a bit of an advantage not having the pressure in finals. I came into this imagining all the worst-case scenarios just to prepare myself and I feel I do better when there is no pressure, and I can just focus on the moment. Hopefully tomorrow I can bring this same energy and mentality to the final and just enjoy my climbing.”

Asked about his dream four boulder scenario Verosil said: “One with a big coordination, maybe like two or three metres across the wall – that would be nice. Maybe a really powerful block where I have to pinch really fat pinches as those are the holds I really excel at. And maybe something sloppy would be nice. Just not slab or crimps. But whatever comes I will be ready for it and give it my best shot.”

WOMEN’S SPEED

The story of the qualification round for the women was the Asian Games record which was lowered three times.

South Korea’s Jimin Jeong first achieved the record 6.26s, and then 6.25s. China’s Lijuan Deng finished the day with the official record though posting a 6.23s on her Lane C run.

It meant Deng qualified in first and Jeong in second ahead of Indonesia’s Desak Made Rita Kusuma Dewi in third.

With 17 women competing the qualification was more about seeding for the finals and getting used to the wall and the venue. Unfortunately though, one climber had to miss out, and that climber was Jordan’s Jood Farkouh who knew she was up against it in her first ever international competition.

Through in 13^th position was Kazakhstan’s Adeliya Utesheva with her best time a 7.68s – close to her quickest time.

Talking about her qualification round Utesheva said: “I was very nervous as it’s an international event and I don’t do many, and it’s an Asian Games, but I am really happy with my results today. It was also the first time I have run in the four-lane. I did my international comp PB, almost my training PB, so I’m happy and I’ll try and get it in the final.”

Looking ahead to the finals Utesheva said: “I’m an underdog and that gives me a little feeling of relaxation. No one expects anything from me so I can just run and have fun without pressure and just do my best.”

COMING UP 

The women will contest their Boulder semi-final and the men will take on the qualification round before the men’s Boulder and women’s Speed finals on day 2 of the Asian games. 

For more information on Climbing at the Aichi-Nagoya Asian Games 2026 visit: https://www.aichi-nagoya2026.org/sport/sport-climbing/